06/29/09

Stock kits now available $250 CDN, CH series kits $350 CDN. Paypal button lets you enter your own total.

My CH bicycle engine kits offer excellent quality and after sales support that is way above anything out there.

My CH series bicycle engine kits are the only bicycle engine kits to offer a performance ignition (including NGK plugs), Japanese mains, double walled seals with spring retainers, and high quality German bearings...not to mention my overall quality and reliability (on everything else) that is quickly obtaining an awesome reputation with those that ride motorized bicycles.

My CH series bicycle engine kits are this way, because I do the extra work on each engine and kit to make these bike engine kits the way that they are. If I haven't done the work on it, it isn't a CH80 or CH48 bicycle engine kit. Other kits out there may look similar (maybe even look identical to some people) but they are not the same. The difference with the CH series bicycle engine kits is the work that I personally do to them...that's the reason why the CH80 and the CH48 bicycle engines cost a little more, and the reason why my CH series bicycle engines outlast and out perform everything else. Even my "stock kits" are of a higher quality than others that are available and are now being offered for sale as a "stock kit" direct from the factory without me doing any extra work...great for those on a bit tighter of a budget.

IMPORTANT TO READ

The prices shown on my website are in Canadian funds. The total amount that needs to be entered on the payment page has to be in the Canadian dollar amount. Then Paypal converts this to US dollars (if you're USA) when they process the billing.

Just so all of my US visitors are aware.

The exchange rate on the dollar usually sits around 20-30%.

This means that your 1 dollar is worth $1.20-$1.30 here in Canada.

This means that a CH series bicycle engine kit would actually cost you somewhere's around the $245-280 USD (plus shipping) range.

This depends on the current rate of exchange between the US dollar and the Canadian dollar though. It is not anything that I have any control over and can change slightly from day to day. 

PLEASE NOTE:

There is now a "Products Page" so to speak. As of December 7, 2008 I will be offering "stock bicycle engine kits" direct from the factory. So many people have asked for this as my kits are of a higher quality (even when stock) that I decided to make them available for those that need to be a little more budget conscious with their purchase. There are both the 48cc and the 70cc (type 80) engines available as a "stock kit" or as the CH series...prices are the same for either sized engine kit.

Please see the page and descriptions to learn the differences.

If anyone has any questions about my bicycle engine kits or about the shipping costs of the bicycle engine kits, please don't hesitate to send me an email or give me a call...thanks.

chrishill@knet.ca

1-807-628-0667 or 1-807-252-5091

My name is Christopher Hill, for anyone that's wondering.

If you're on Facebook, look me up to see what we're really about in our daily lives...there's also a CH80 Bicycle Engine Fan Club on Facebook. It's new so let's see some people joining, and hopefully we can get some riders together.

CH series bicycle engine kits are also available in Cambridge, ON

Ralph is taking a break from the bike's for a bit. For any of Ralph's customers that need anything or have any questions, please contact me directly.

chrishill@knet.ca

1-807-628-0667 or 1-807-252-5091

CH series bicycle engine kits are also available in Winnipeg, MB

Contact Ash at ash44@mts.net

(204) 669-4871

Your name could be listed here..

Contact me for details on this awesome hobby!

Please see the shipping information at the bottom of this page to find out how much it would cost to have your bicycle engine kit shipped to you. Or, send me an email with your address and I'll look up a price for shipping a bicycle engine kit to you.

I am the person who set an industry first with my bicycle engine kits...90 day warranty on the engines. Now the CH series bicycle engine kits come with a year, and my "stock" bicycle engine kits have the 90 days. The warranty covers any and all defects in materials and workmanship...and as we all know, I tend to go overboard and cover so much more than what would normally be taken care of. Basically, I'm not happy unless you're happy and out riding and telling others of your awesome bicycle engine kit.

 

Other bicycle engine kits out there come with a 30 day warranty on the engines...I just can't seem to make sense of that. I don't think I know of a single person who has actually been able to fully break-in a bicycle engine (properly) within 30 days. What is the point of having a warranty that expires before you even have your bicycle engine broken in?

 

www.motoredbikes.com

(the leading motorized bicycle forum and information site) has done a review of my engine kits. From what I understand, this review will remain ongoing for the life of the engine. Keep an eye on posts made by Quay1962...that's the person whom my engine was given to after the initial review was started.

 

Here is a little of what they had to say at the beginning of the review…

"it sounds and feels great...this version of the happy-time is about as close to a real engine as i've run so far, i'm very impressed. i should have mentioned right off that the ports were very clean...heck, everything was. chris has taken the concept of happy-time QC and applied it to good effect. i see why he can warranty the engine for 90 days.”

Here is what was said a few days later...

"the weather isn't allowing much serious testing right now...but i hopped on the huffy for a 10 mile run yesterday out to dee's and back.
i'm on the 3rd slot and we have high humidity right now, so it's not everything it should be, but i got an easy 32mph...it'll do more, i know it, but i'm pleased with 30mph on any motoredbike. the engine's so strong you could do no-pedal take-offs. so long as i have proper choke, it'll pop with the slightest flick of the clutch lever, very cool.

and, again...chris's choice of bearings seems to be what the doctor ordered...there is NO whine (gear/clutch/cover) at any speed, and at idle it never sputters or jumps...it just waits for the next twist of the grip, then responds right off.

i have the feeling the CH80 is gonna tear up a few back wheels, i know it'd eat this huffy (decent 14ga coaster) for breakfast if i let it."

 

 

Here is a link to another forum for motorized bicycles. This is a new forum which opened up in December 2007 and is a nice friendly place to hang out and ask other people about any questions which you may have about various bicycle engine kits or motorized bicycles.

www.motorbicycling.com

Here's a direct link to what a couple of customers have had to say about the cheap engines that they tried initially versus one of my CH80 bicycle engine kits that they ordered afterwards.

http://motorbicycling.com/f4/ch80-engine-kit-review-4235.html

I recommend joining the above forums...they are, and will be an invaluable source of information for anyone interested in motorized bicycles and bicycle engine kits. Whether it's one of my kits that you buy or someone else's...these forums are great!

Another thing that sets the quality of my bicycle engine kits over and above most other bicycle engine kits is the fact that my bicycle engine kits  USE HIGH QUALITY BEARINGS THROUGH-OUT THE ENTIRE ENGINE AND LARGE STUDS! Nearly all of the other bicycle engines that you will find out there use thin bushings (or bearings with low quality cages) which wear out quickly, and tiny studs that will break off with the slightest torque applied against them. The stock Chinese wrist pin (piston pin) bearing for an example is rated for about 6000 rpm, the new bearings from China with precision cages are rated for about 8000-9000 rpm. These engines will typically run around 6000 rpm with a 44 tooth sprocket and even higher with the larger sprockets. The bearings that I put into my engines are rated at 27,000 rpm, and even a 62 tooth sprocket running wide open for my 20 km ride to work doesn't do the slightest bit of damage. The engine screams loudly (super high RPM's), but runs great. I'm guessing that is the reason why other vendors keep trying to push people towards using smaller sprockets, lol. I've found that the 48 tooth allows the engine to run at a higher rpm which seems to give an awesome balance between speed and torque (power). With the 48 tooth sprocket we're generally cruising around 45km/h and have more than enough power to get up any hills...even with the trailer loaded.

These bicycle engine kits also use heavier, motorcycle grade cables for the clutch and throttle...other kits use light bicycle grade cables (which tend to wear and break easier). The throttle assembly itself is even more heavy duty (doesn't feel like a light piece of plastic from a kids toy and isn't made of cast aluminum that will shatter if banged against something) and it has a steel cable guide (just like a real bike). This allows you to take out the extra slack that is always present in the cable sheathing, and to prevent the possibility of your cable getting pinched over at the throttle handle. The clutch handle has even been improved upon...still the alloy locking style, just now a little more heavier duty.

With my bicycle engine kits you get both a 48 and a 44 tooth sprocket (you get to make your choice and are able to give both a try). Personally, I recommend the 48 tooth, this size gives you a lot more torque, and only slows down your top speed by approximately 6-8 mph. With the 48 you can expect speeds around the 40-45 km/h mark...please keep in mind that you are still riding a bicycle, lol...not a motorcycle.

The other bicycle engine kits out there that are labeled (by the manufacturer's) as 80cc are actually sitting anywhere between the 48-69cc size (buy one of the cheap, pretend bicycle engine kits and measure it if you don't believe me). At least you've been warned...there is really no such thing as a true 80cc bicycle engine. The largest bike engine that you could ever get would be a 70cc...which actually measures just shy of 70.

My CH80 bicycle engines measure in with a 47mm bore and a 40mm stroke…this works out to be 69.397cc…technically making these bicycle engines a 70cc engine in my opinion. The manufacturer and market still refers to them as an 80cc Bicycle Engine Kit, and I am going with the market on these. It's a lot easier for all you people to find out the truth about the wonderful little Chinese bicycle engine kits if you are able to find information like what I have written here. By this, I mean when people hear of an 80cc engine and do a search on it (google, msn, yahoo) they'll find those that are advertised as 80's. If I don't write the 80cc bicycle engine on my site the search engines won't bring it up to you. At least my engines are not a surprise size between 48-69cc like those that a lot of other people are selling and trying to say that they are 80's. And hopefully what I've written will save a lot of people from getting ripped off like I did when I first got involved with these engines. (you wouldn't believe the number of people that have asked me for a head gasket for an 80, and then get upset with me when I send them one because mine are way larger than there's, lol.)

In this industry the sayings like "you get what you pay for", and "buyer beware" really are true. Trust me on that. I wasted a lot of money when I first started riding...all I wanted was a bicycle engine kit that would run reliably and would allow me to put many miles on it. Oh yeah, and a seller that was honest and helpful.

Believe it or not...I couldn't find such a thing. So here I am with my own bicycle engine kits with the hopes of saving a lot of people from going thru the frustrations and disappointments that I had. I started into these little marvels back in the early summer of 2005 because I had my drivers license suspended. I rode daily in all of our miserable Northern Ontario weather...everything from +35C to freezing rain, hail, and snowstorms bad enough to close the roads. I finally had my day in court though and was able to get my drivers license reinstated (wrongful suspension) this spring so as of April I've been driving more than riding and jumped from $4 of gas a month to get back and forth to work up to over $400 per month with a small 6 cylinder, lol. Man, I miss my bike most days, but when you've got a small army of children to take back and forth the bike is a little impractical, lol. I still ride when ever I can get some "me" time though and it feels great riding when I want to, instead of having to.

I also include a frame adapter which allows you to mount this bicycle engine on the newer styles of mountain bikes with the larger downtubes. You are no longer limited to finding bikes with small diameter tubing, or having to create your own mounting bracket for your bike's engine. This really isn't anything fancy, but you will find it to be totally awesome, and makes life so much nicer during the installation of your bicycle engine. It also helps to prevent you from repeatedly banging your head against the wall if you are trying to install the engine on one of those over-sized tubing type of frames, lol. As with anything, there are adaptations that can be made to make your own custom mount as well. 

All of the pictures on this page are thumbnails, if you click on any of them they will open to full-size and will be a lot clearer to see. For whatever reason, the thumbnails turned out to be a little fuzzy...sorry.

I've hit speeds over 60km/h on my el' cheapo mountain bike and bicycle engine kit while traveling around Thunder Bay. Please keep in mind that this is on a bit of a stretch, without wind, and my engine has been properly broken in, and everything is dialed in and adjusted pretty much perfectly. This is on an engine with over 6800 km's on it...and it still gets about 160-180 km's from the 2 liter gas tank.

 

If a kit seems like the price is really low and it's almost to good to be true, it probably is.

Buyer beware, take your time, look around, and ask questions. That is the best way to help insure that you are going to purchase a bicycle engine kit that will last for thousands of miles instead of one that might last a mile or two.

I can talk like that because my customers and I know very well who has the most rugged and reliable bicycle engine kits out there. Get yourself one of my CH series bicycle engine kits, and you'll know it too! Spend a little bit of time reading thru the forums. Yes, you'll find other sellers in there trying to push their low priced kits (they need to, whereas mine sell themselves from having happy customers), but I'm not worried because when it comes to a quality engine it's my name that people are saying. I realize that not everyone out there can afford a higher priced engine, but what is really going to cost more? When you have to keep buying an engine (or parts) from the other guys over and over again, and having to deal with the downtime and your bike sitting parked, or spending a little more in the first place for an engine that has been done over (by me) to make it the most reliable out there.

 

Generally speaking, I ask everyone that buys a bicycle engine kit from me for pictures and feedback that I can post up on this website. Most people say they are more than willing to send me this, some have, and some haven't. I wish more people would send something so more people can see that these bicycle engine kits truly are the BEST! I do have a huge back-log of pictures and comments to post up on here, and have been trying to make the time to get them up. I really do appreciate all the pictures and comments that have come in and will hopefully get things up soon for everyone to see.

 

I have a full-time job (that I enjoy...most of the time) that takes up my days, and I sell the bicycle engine kits as a hobby in my free time (whatever that is). I started selling these after getting burned and feeling ripped off from buying kits from other vendors out there. I knew that there had to be a better quality kit out there and if there wasn't...I was going to make one myself! So, I did.

These engines mount low in the frame so they don't disrupt your center of gravity while flying around. This is especially important if your doing any sort of trail riding or flying down gravel roads at the high speeds available to you with one of these kits! These are NOT the tire-scrubber, friction drive type of kits that burn-out your tires or slip when they get even the slightest moisture on the drive rollers!

Haven't you ever wondered why almost every vehicle with an engine has the engine mounted low? A few examples would be, motorcycles, dirtbikes, atv's (3 and 4 wheelers), cars, trucks, go-karts, etc, etc. All these and more try to mount the engine as low into the center of gravity as possible.

Why should I want to argue with professional engineers and have a bicycle engine that mounts high on the back of the bike, lol.

Sometimes, I guess it's good to follow the paths of others. 

 

My kits are nothing but the best! These are premium quality, high performance engines. No slipping rollers or belts to worry about, and no extra weight sitting up high on the bike making it want to tip over!

 

This premium quality kit comes with everything that you need (except gas and oil) to convert almost any mountain bike, cruiser or chopper into a motorized bike. If you are using a mountain bike with old school type of tubing (downtube diameter sitting around an inch or so), you will need to have at least an 18" frame. If you are using a bike with the oversized tubing (as many are these days), you will need at least a 19.5" frame...but, a 20" would make life easier on you. Try to avoid the "downhill racer" type of mountain bikes unless you get a really tall (24-26" frame) as the sloped crossbar will make for a very difficult, if not impossible installation. You'll also want to have a minimum of 4 3/4" of clearance between your pedal crank arms so they will clear the engine...this will just fit so 5" would be better. We prefer mountain bikes over any others as they seem to hold up to rougher use better and the wider tires offer better traction on all surfaces compared to other bikes...especially important when you're traveling a little quicker.

You can still pedal and shift the bike like normal, but I need to ask, why would you want to? You can simply start the engine by releasing the clutch lever on your handle bar after pedaling only a very short distance.

Mine usually starts after about 4-6 pedals, and yes it's just as easy to pedal with the kit installed as it was without the kit.

There's no tiring ropes to be pulling on these, besides wouldn't you rather be out having fun riding instead of having to get off your bike and be pulling on a rope to start it, then getting on and riding, turning it off and then having to get off and start it again.

That doesn't sound like a lot of fun to me.

I'd rather just pop-out my clutch and be gone!

My engine kits are premium quality, you can start and stop the engine while you are riding. You can even still pedal (or pretend to, sometimes I go by people and pedal backwards just to watch the look on their faces, then I stop and talk awhile, lol).

These kits use a twist grip hand throttle (similar to a motorcycle or dirt-bike) which provides for smooth control of your speed. Depending on the gear ratio (the tooth count) of your sprocket, you can expect your speed range to be as slow as you want (with a lot of bottom end torque) or with a racing sprocket you can hit some scary speeds. Keep in mind that you're on a bicycle and not a motorcycle...bicycles aren't made to be ridden at super scary speeds, lol.

 

The kit also contains all the needed hardware to get this up and running on your bike.

Everything is included except the bike, gas, and oil!

To install my kits you will be needing a little basic common-sense (or my email address for questions...we all have those kind of days, lol) or you can call me with any questions (1-807-628-0667 or 1-807-252-5091, before 11:PM eastern time...please), and a minimum of tools (a couple of metric wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers). It only takes about 4-6 hours or so for a first time installation on almost any bicycle that does NOT have rear suspension. Front forks with shocks are alright but you can NOT install this kit on a bike with a rear shock because the movement of the back end of the bike will cause a deflection that will force the drive chain to jump off the sprocket and that will either seriously hurt you or could destroy the engine (or both)!